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  • Published on Sep 6, 2022 veröffentlicht
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    In today's video I attempt to design and 3D print a shoe from scratch and then wear it to the worlds largest sneaker event SneakerCon!
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    Seth Fowler
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Comments • 1 796

  • Sneka97
    Sneka97 6 months ago +2645

    We definitely need a v2 of these!

  • themrworf1701
    themrworf1701 6 months ago +622

    Ender 3 is really good printer for the price. I use mine for 4 years now I think and it still works really good. You just need to make few adjustments when is out of the box. You shouldn't throw it away, you should have give it to someone who knows how stuff works.

    • Joe Paske
      Joe Paske 27 days ago

      Dude says he is an industrial engineer then wont give the ender 3 a chance.

    • Jason Pugliano
      Jason Pugliano 2 months ago

      the Anycubic Kobra Go is much better than the Ender 3

    • Clemen t
      Clemen t 2 months ago

      @sherockow it's just not great for flexible fillament

  • 3D Printer Academy
    3D Printer Academy 6 months ago +1207

    RIP the Ender 3 in the trash 😔 Its actually a really good 3d printer for the price, wish I could have helped you out before you tossed it!

    • Джошуа волков
      Джошуа волков 3 days ago

      I like the ender 3 v2 neo max I went through 3 ender 3 and threw them away, but I couldn't get them to work.

    • justin caauwe
      justin caauwe 5 days ago

      Literally made me want to stop watching the video when he tossed it, also if he had any experience 3d printing before he would have increased infill on the sole

    • DD 86
      DD 86 9 days ago

      I got my v2 to work on the very first print. Had it for 2 years now and no problems whatsoever

    • SamIguess.
      SamIguess. 10 days ago

      @Bill Erty thank you dude I had something messed up

    • Bill Erty
      Bill Erty 10 days ago

      @SamIguess. look up a tutorial

  • BoltDoesArt
    BoltDoesArt 6 months ago +66

    Two tips to help you increase the durability of your next shoe print:
    1 - If your going to print the shoe on it's side like you did with this version, increase the wall amount by at least 5, this will give the bottom of the shoe a thicker wall, trapping the air inside so you wont have any problems involving the shoe deflating.
    2 - Play around with Infill patterns! Some of them can be pretty shitty when it comes to sustaining heavy weights so it's all about finding that perfect pattern as well as the percentage.

    • Alexander Daum
      Alexander Daum 5 months ago +5

      I'd also suggest different infill patterns. Maybe a 3D infill like Cube or Gyroid would help keeping flexibility the same in all directions

  • Wyatt Ledoux
    Wyatt Ledoux 6 months ago +425

    The ender usually needs adjusting to get working well initially, but it's a great printer. Absolutely a waste to throw it away

    • Conor Stewart
      Conor Stewart 27 days ago +1

      @Les Franks that’s a very narrow range of temperatures, it might just be the TPU you bought.

    • Les Franks
      Les Franks 27 days ago

      @Conor Stewart yep after running temp towers, the TPU I have prints without stringing, but with only a 4 degree Celsius temperature window. To hot stringing. To low, low surface gloss and stringing.

    • Conor Stewart
      Conor Stewart 27 days ago +1

      @Les Franks I don’t know where the misconceptions with TPU come from, you absolutely can print TPU with a stock ender 3, you may not be able to print the ultra flexible filaments but normal TPU is fine and it prints fine. If you are that worried then get a dual gear extruder.

    • Conor Stewart
      Conor Stewart 27 days ago

      @Harmonic I have had no issues with TPU on an ender 3 with a Bowden tube, the only thing it has had issues with is polypropylene, but it is still printable. Bowden tubes are not as bad as a lot of people seem to think.

    • Quiet Wanderer
      Quiet Wanderer 3 months ago

      Yeah, if he thinks a Ender 3 is terrible, I still have a Anet A8 'kit' printer with a acrylic frame, still have a bunch of mods pending for it like a v4 hotend, new powersupply, a mosphet for the heated bed, ect, ect

  • Lennert Laevaert
    Lennert Laevaert 6 months ago +175

    Going overboard on the supports really hurts your print-time. Also go for more infill, because that was not much at all. I'd also try to bump up the printspeed, with flexible filament you can try pushing 40mm/s, especially with a direct drive machine like you have. All those things combined will result in a more comfortable shoe in like half the print time

    • obayemi Exsequiae
      obayemi Exsequiae 4 months ago +1

      yeah, the amount of support while complaining about print time was painful ...
      that wasn't support, that was more like a solid slab of porous plastic...
      and then the infill was almost completely inexistant just aside that solid slide of infill x)

    • pulsar beam
      pulsar beam 5 months ago +1

      I definitely agree
      Especially on prusa or anything else built on slicer you got those tree supports and you can cut down so much print Time by using tree support
      And also big agree in general don't slack on your infill

    • RioTaken
      RioTaken 5 months ago

      @Michael G. i know im just saying

    • Michael G.
      Michael G. 5 months ago +1

      @RioTaken one A8 on fire does not equal all A8's on fire. Any 3d printer has the potential to self immolate, just some more than others lol

    • Lennert Laevaert
      Lennert Laevaert 6 months ago

      @Clayman0 Bro get a Ender 5 plus, it has a huge bed and is only like 400-500 bucks

  • Jerome Ignacio
    Jerome Ignacio 6 months ago +530

    This kind of content is honestly what makes you stand out among others in the same niche. I didn't expect much going into this video after seeing the shorts, but boy was I wrong. I didn't know that something so simple, a 3d printed slide/shoe at that, can create a nice little narrative. Appreciate what you do, just like how you've re-crafted the $20 series to create more interest while listening to the feedback of your audience.
    Keep on keeping on beyond the norm!

    • Billy Mitchell
      Billy Mitchell 3 months ago

      yea he stands out as a guy who didnt have the mental capacity or know how to get the ender 3 working properly so he trhows it in the garbage instead of maybe donating it to a viewer. stands out very much yes.

    • spartanB0292
      spartanB0292 5 months ago

      Wouldn't have expected to see a sablay pic on this channel lol

    • Seth Fowler
      Seth Fowler 6 months ago +1

      Nice one

  • RMahoney
    RMahoney 6 months ago +340

    My dude, this needs to be a series. There were a lot of learning discoveries for you and I'd love to see you make improvements and eventually make a decent shoe.

    • Henrique Sena Pacci
      Henrique Sena Pacci 6 months ago

      I am subscribing , i hope to see more, i will wait 3 months, after that im gone kkkkkk, it would be awesome to see a series learning and improving a 3d printed shoe until you make a great one, also if you decide to do a series, work with someone to decide on the design first kkkkkkk, here some ideas, 1) divide the chapters in finding the best format of each part of the shoe, sole, upper body, left, right, ankle, and it does not need to be 100% 3d printed, you could attach some things to it, laces or a mechanism to tie the shoe, also the sole of the shoe, honeycomb style with a X design inside should give you confort and durability

    • Loll Godz
      Loll Godz 6 months ago

      @David Chen cant say this any better

    • David Chen
      David Chen 6 months ago +1

      100% agreed

  • Cesotoseot
    Cesotoseot 6 months ago +40

    It doesn’t matter how big your printer is. You will always need to print something just slightly larger than your available area.

    • David Wilson
      David Wilson 5 months ago

      I may give this a try on my Rat Rig 500mm. Should be able to fit a pair if I'm brave enough

    • BananaBus
      BananaBus 5 months ago +1

      people with a blackbelt printer: 😳

  • Scout339
    Scout339 5 months ago +9

    If you ever intend to do a V2, I would HIGHLY recommend Gyroid infill, as the pressure will be dispersed evenly across the entire sole and much more uniform simply because of the 3D structuring of Gyroid infill. That and a couple more walls to allow for better sole rigidity.
    Edit: also probably a more conventional color for testing just so you don't draw attention to test shoes, but that's fully up to you

  • Jeff Hertzberg
    Jeff Hertzberg 6 months ago +25

    Hey, if you haven't done so yet, get a larger diameter nozzle (eg. 0.8mm) and crank up your layer height to 0.4mm so you can prototype quicker. You could probably cut your print time in half, all while getting thicker, more sturdy walls.

  • Andrew Glick
    Andrew Glick 6 months ago +37

    I've seen a lot of great comments about suggestions for a v2, so I figured I'd throw in my 2 cents as well--
    - You can probably bump up the layer height from 0.2mm to 0.3mm which will give a MASSIVE reduction in the print time.
    - You might also want to try a 0.6mm nozzle, or increasing the extrusion width parameters with the 0.4mm nozzle.
    - You may want to try some of the 3D infill patterns in PrusaSlicer, such as Gyroid or Cubic for better foot support.
    - (The terminology got a bit confusing, as "support" generally refers to the external material that is removed after the object is printing and "infill" refers to the grid-like structure inside the object.)
    I am definitely a bit envious that your feet are small enough for a shoe to fit on a Prusa MK3S. I don't think I could print a shoe that fits me on mine. Looking forward to a part 2 (hopefully)!

    • shoes121255
      shoes121255 5 months ago

      This. 0.6mm nozzle is how I got my ender 3 to print TPU. Adding more holes like crocs would reduce print time too. Higher triangular infill in the lower sole would likely improve comfort.

    • My Little Parody
      My Little Parody 6 months ago

      If I may add, the support needs to be denser in the sole at the back, to support the weight of the body.

    • Nils Tillander
      Nils Tillander 6 months ago +2

      The amount of support (basically a whole foot gets printed) is definitely way overboard!

  • little figgins
    little figgins 2 months ago +3

    This was unexpectedly heart warming. I liked how all the ppl who are obviously really into shoes and sneakers were so supportive of the shoes and no one teased you about it unless if you said something mocking the shoes. I thought that was nice how they were supportive just in case you were like… idk… wanting to be a shoe designer or something. Really kind.
    Not that the sneakers were so horrible lol but it’s just nice to see ppl being cool to each other like that.

  • DankScole
    DankScole 6 months ago

    this was the most interesting video I've ever watched. Your narrative and dude at 10:00 had me crying laughing...😂

  • loganbaileysfunwithtrains
    loganbaileysfunwithtrains 5 months ago +5

    I think printing the soles and printing the uppers separately and then gluing them together would probably be quicker, allow for some adjustment also give you the ability to add arch support. It is a very cool project however, 3D printers are really almost becoming a staple of a lot of households it seems, I’m going to have to buy one at some point soon

  • freedoomed
    freedoomed 6 months ago +4

    The ender 3 is definitely a usable printer but it is cheap so you won't get what you get out of a prusa without putting more time into it. the shoes need more infill in the sole and you need to print with more walls. more walls will increase the thickness of the outside layers so it won't pop as easily.

  • alan
    alan 6 months ago +5

    This definitely needs to be a series! This was super interesting to watch and I'd love to see you iterate on the design to make some actual good, comfy 3d printed shoes

  • BillyD00
    BillyD00 5 months ago +2

    Adding a bunch more walls will help with the leaking, and trying different infill patterns and densities will help with the firmness. Try cubic or gyriod infills. Both distribute force pretty evenly, and gyriod creates one continuous void rather than making individual air pockets

  • Richard S
    Richard S 2 months ago +3

    In case you haven't done this already: Well, use more infill. That will make the sole stiffer and not so like a water balloon ;-)
    ... You can adjust that in the slicer setting. A slicer is that program that cuts your design in horizontal slices for printing (e.g. Prusaslicer for your prusa printer). And there you can adjust the 3D structure of the infill pattern and the density (10% or 20% for example). But the infill pattern is orinted relative to the build plate and not relative to the shoe orientation in space ;-) So just pick an infill pattern that varies along the height and you would get some compromise for dampening in many directions and some of them will help you, you should not fall through your shoe to the hard ground ;-)
    And you could print it with 3 or more outer walls to make it more robust against puncturing. The standard are 2. But it takes time. And it gets stiffer, but that could let it break instead of bend, maybe there where you bend your shoe while walking...
    But it would take at least a day longer when you had 3 days for one shoe - and you have so much volume to fill in the sole...
    And make the heel wider when that was a pain. Maybe make the shoe around your heel higher. I think, it was too low on your heel, that could hurt. And expand whatever was too small too on your shoe.
    That are things that you can change "easily". It's more difficult to find a material like "the same, but more robust against wear"... You would have to start from scratch - more or less - with the search for materials. Make a collab with 3D filament makers and let these experts do their job, they should know what to pick ;-) Easy for you ;-)
    There are flexible filaments that are more flexible - and others that are stiffer. Good filaments have something like a number for the flexibility to compare them. But that might not do much with wear and tear and just make the overall shoe more stiff? It could break instead of bending... It's a trade-off as so often in engineering...
    Make a test sole piece, where you can see how flexible and how stiff it is against standing on it and against bending - with different materials and different infill patterns (orientation! The same orientation on the build plate as the final shoe, don't print it flat on the printer or you would get different results later with your shoe print when that is not flat on your printer). And you can test the material against wear and tear against rough concrete walls or even sand paper...
    (I sound almost like an expert, but no, I just do 3D printing as a hobby and I watched your experiences with your new shoes ;-)

  • 𓆏
    𓆏 6 months ago +10

    In case you didn't know there are filaments that create a foam, like "ColorFabb Varioshore TPU natural-voluminous foaming flexible filament".
    And stuff that other people probably already told you:
    1) If you use gyroid infill, it should be about the same strength in every direction. You infill probably buckled and didn't provide that much support.
    2) You could fill the sole with some foam after printing
    3) There's a lot you can do to shorten print times, tons of videos out there.

    • 0GRANATE0
      0GRANATE0 6 months ago

      Didn't he also used TPU? What did he use?

  • Skylion
    Skylion 6 months ago +60

    Interesting concept I think if you would have done maybe 40-50% infill with either the cubic or gyroid pattern they would have been alot more comfy in the soles, the heel problem could be easily fixed by widening the back of the shoe by maybe 10mm?

    • Hello There
      Hello There 6 months ago +3

      I made some shoes and I found cura lines at 13% single line with a 2cm sole for 130lbs works great for walking running and jumping on all terrain

  • Beauregard Slim
    Beauregard Slim 6 months ago +2

    Something that prints and is ready to go off the bed is always the ideal, but it is very restrictive when it comes to design. It may seem like a single thing is simpler, but it actually isn't. And you end up throwing away a lot of plastic with every iteration. There's nothing wrong with glue or rivets (and maybe stitching when it comes to shoes). Multiple parts can also be printed in different materials (maybe TPU outside, TPE inside), different colours, etc.

  • Jacob R
    Jacob R 6 months ago +2

    The main suggested I have with 3D print shoe V2 is more infill. It looked like you had 5% or 10% infill which is fine if you need to print fast but gave you very little support for your feet. Hopefully you will have more time for the next 3D printed shoes.

  • Aamir
    Aamir 24 days ago

    I'm glad I found this video. I've been designing my own pair of shoes for months now, trying out different methods of making a sole from scratch including 3D printing them out of a flexible material. So far, I've found that coating the sole in something like latex, silicone, or rubber will give it more strength and durability while maintaining flexibility.

  • Stoic Gore
    Stoic Gore 6 months ago +69

    I used to 3d print Crocs and heels for my X-wives doll(1/12th size) company. Always wanted to do life size models and this motivates me to try. Thanks for the video!

  • Roy Sigurd Karlsbakk
    Roy Sigurd Karlsbakk 6 months ago +3

    I'd use more perimiterss than you did for this, and perhaps some better infill for the soles, preferably gyroid. Also, I'd suggest experimenting with different types of TPU with varying hardness.
    PS: If you add a thin layer of gluestick to the build plate, you won't have to rub off the excess filament ;)

  • ECA77
    ECA77 6 months ago +3

    This with Colorfabb foaming TPU would be great for something like this, it would be lower temp for the sole and top area, and higher temps to make it foam for the infill as a cushion. That way it is all the same material so you know it will bond while printing and you wouldn't have to do any type of filament change, just the temperature, if you could print it laying down of course.

  • Vegan Pete
    Vegan Pete 6 months ago

    For fast, less detailed prints (such as shoes), if you want to get the print time down - obviously don't use the fine nozzle, use a larger nozzle. Everyone uses the fine nozzle for full-bed prints - that's really just for detailed/small models. The larger nozzle still actually prints quite good details on large prints - it's all about "scale" give it a try.

  • mach16j
    mach16j 6 months ago +4

    First time I see one of your videos. I think being able to make your own shoes is great and I hope you keep experimenting with this. I would suggest trying Ninja Flex since it's softer and will probably make a better sole material. It's more expensive than regular tpu but could be worth it once you really start figuring your design out. Maybe you could also try printing in multiple materials. Good luck

  • Ebisu Minutes
    Ebisu Minutes 6 months ago +1

    For a V2, Id say for the hollow footbed, I'd suggest using the support material as a means to fill it for support, because it would allow it to be infinitely more comfortable, and I'd also make the arguement to widen the back, also consider getting some sandpaper and going and sand off some off material till it fits perfectly

  • Justan Opinion
    Justan Opinion 6 months ago +35

    The filler mesh would work great as sole cushioning 🤓

    • No name
      No name 6 months ago

      Or the gyroid

  • Nick Scott
    Nick Scott 6 months ago +2

    It was really cool to see these in person and see the full story behind them in this video! Great concept, can't wait to see you create something else!

  • Victor Torres
    Victor Torres 6 months ago +5

    love this seth...you keep innovating the youtube narrative...glad you appreciate NEW & DIFFERENT content instead of following others...understandably i know the thrift challenge was due to retro rick but your take on it stands out!! excited for pt 2 of the series, think you should also give it more time for design purposes but in all GREAT ViD!

  • Russ Dahlberg
    Russ Dahlberg 6 months ago +1

    I would increase the number of walls to get more durability. Also you can change infill percentages. Maybe start off with a lighter infill and the bottom of the sole and increase it as you go higher, almost like creating a built-in midsole.

  • M
    M 6 months ago +39

    I dream of a future where we literally just pick up some raw materials and go ham designing as a then much more advanced and versatile 3D printer gives us exactly what we ask from it. Imagine it's not only a 3D printer, but also a scanner. Got a sick pair of shoes you wanna make some adjustments to? You can deconstruct and adjust it digitally, like a template to work from. I'm envious if I just barely miss these developments... I truly wonder what it'd be like if we have a tiny scale industry at the tip of our fingers, maybe some amazing material recycling machines, just picture it, digital 3D design would become a standard in education if it was really that accessible and applicable.

    • Κаrmа
      Κаrmа 6 months ago

      @Isaiah C Jesus and God is daddy

    • M
      M 6 months ago +2

      @Cracky That's a good point, also making wide variants of shoes that don't have those etc.
      Once you've got your foot exactly figured out and you keep those blueprints, you could make basically any shoe very comfy.

  • SJbox
    SJbox 5 months ago

    Things you can do to lessen the print time.
    1. Adjust the support to have a narrow Base (forgot the term in Cura)
    2. Do not put a hole design in the top if it needs a lot of support to print. Hole design will take more time.
    3. Optional but you can pause the printing before it covers up the insole then put a Jelly or foamy material inside. Can improve the comfort and optionally lessen the infill.

  • Aaronnn
    Aaronnn 6 months ago +6

    man it’s crazy what people can do with these 3D printers, looks cool tbh

  • Jdbye
    Jdbye 6 months ago +1

    I'd like to see a v2. Maybe you could find a slightly softer flex/TPU filament to use for most of the shoe, and use a slightly harder one for the sole which will stand up better to wear and tear. Increase the infill on the sole, and increase the dimensions slightly in the areas where it's too small. It will never be as durable as proper shoes, but it could be a viable option for those that have a 3D printer since you can print a new one any time.

  • Stellar Lake System
    Stellar Lake System 6 months ago

    I feel like the properties you get from the flexible filament would be better suited to a barefoot style shoe, since air retaining structures don't tend to be very durable, and then you'd actually be benefitting from how flexible the sole ends up

  • EvilSpyBoy
    EvilSpyBoy 27 days ago

    You could redo these now with tree supports and the print time would be significantly less FYI. Given you used TPU you could do a scan of your foot, then print in a hard filament like PLA and use that to stretch the shoe/maybe heat it a little to stretch it. Also if you did want to reduce the infill on the sole it would also reduce the print time and you could then add some holes into the bottom to inject some gel/silicon sealant to give it strength before wearing. 3D printing by itself gets you so far, its when you start mixing and matching with other materials you start to really tap into the best of 3D printing

  • Dan Whiffen
    Dan Whiffen 5 months ago

    as a 3d print enthusiast (i have 4) and printed a small amount of TPU, this was fascinating. great job. Prusa should give you a nice nod because printing TPU can be tough. This could be an add for their printer's reliability and quality

    • Conor Stewart
      Conor Stewart 27 days ago

      TPU isn’t that hard to print, even a stock ender 3 can print most TPUs with the exception of the ultra flexible ones. The Prusa is a direct drive anyway, if it couldn’t print TPU it would be a rubbish product, it doesn’t really show its reliability or quality just that it can print a material it would be expected to print.

  • Michael G.
    Michael G. 5 months ago +1

    Impressive, would live to see a version 2 of these. I would suggest a higher infill density in the sole as well as switching to gyroid infill for a more uniform fill which will probably make the sole squishier and more comfortable. Also you could probably reduce the support density down which will definitely decrease print times.
    But a fully 3d printed shoe in flexible materials from what appears to be a novice 3d printer user is very impressive
    Edit: and damn even a so called bad printer doesn't deserve to be just tossed in the bin, some printer enthusiast out there will gladly take it off your hands, I know I would've lol 😆

  • Justan Opinion
    Justan Opinion 6 months ago +130

    Would love to see v2 of the ‘fear of clogs’

  • funx24x7
    funx24x7 6 months ago

    Not a bad first attempt, I think you could easily keep the design and just tweak the print settings for a better result. Also a bigger printer would help, as much as I love my ender 3 I wouldn't have recommended it OR the prusa for this project due to the size limitations.

  • Ryoku itoku
    Ryoku itoku 6 months ago +1

    I think the best feedback you featured was the after print infill of gel or foam. if you could find a lo/no expanding medium for those the wear of the soul could be mitigated or bypassed by process. High rubber infill could be retreaded how they carve into NASCAR tires with a hot iron. OR you could use a medium density foam and just regularly plait-dip your shoes to get the tread back after sculpting it in with a gouge tool. air fill isn't great unless you can puncture proof it so that'd mean post treating the shoe and then hiding the hole - manufacturing side it may be practical but its not pretty to have someone on a timer attack shoes with a hot iron to seal a hole.

  • DorffMeister
    DorffMeister 6 months ago

    I don't have experience with flexible filament, BUT, I'd recommend the following changes: More perimeters for your walls. Considerably denser infill. Change to a different infill, maybe gyroid or honeycomb? And my #1 recommendation: don't print at 0.2mm. My default is 0.3 and you can go much fatter for this. Really for this project, I'd say get between a 0.6mm - 1.0mm nozzle and print much fatter, especially given that you don't need any fine detail for a shoe. If you'd printed fatter, you could have done a couple more iterations to make ONE shoe comfortable and then mirror and print the second shoe only after the first one worked.

  • Lee
    Lee 6 months ago

    You've come across the same problems I did when printing my own flip flops 🙂 You shouldve kept the other printer (maybe you did and just "threw it out" for effect) because that's basically what I use over here.
    The sole needs to be THICK, and have uniform infill. You'll also want to print the shoe in like 3 parts: sole, top, back. Then super glue will hold them together very very well (I can almost tear the material when trying to rip it apart).
    The biggest thing that sucks is yeah, the print bed size. You're probably 10.5 shoe size like me. Pretty much shutdown the project for me since I focus on functional prints only.
    Great video!

  • Nadesican
    Nadesican 6 months ago +5

    If you try this again, I would suggest breaking it down into like.. three parts. Make the sole out of TPU, which is still flexible but more rugged. The top should be designed to be fastened together and made of your flexible plastic - it'll allow you to print an overall bigger shoe on your Prusa and probably let make it more compliant to your foot.

  • Noah Bility
    Noah Bility 6 months ago +7

    Nah, these go so hard in my opinion!
    Beautiful color and the 3D print finish adds character
    Definitely worth a revisit

  • Bradon Hoover
    Bradon Hoover 4 months ago

    I work at a maker space, we got two of those MK3S+, but not the pre-assembled. No we got the kits, and I built them from scratch. There were several opportunities for things to go catastrophically wrong, and sometimes it did! A bearing needed to be replaced here, a plastic part crushed under screw tension there, but at the end of the day they're two of the best print quality machines I've ever worked with, and the company was kind enough to provide gummy bears to ration out through the assembly.

  • PlugSlums
    PlugSlums 6 months ago

    Right so I'm kinda into 3d printing and have some suggestions to help you out.
    Look into the cr-30 printer from creality, it's a belt driven printer that can go on endlessly (literally a 3d printer with a tredmil as a print bed), now your going to have to convert from a Bowden extruder to a direct drive. Direct drive is what will allow you to print with flexable filaments like ninjatek's "ninjaflex tpu"
    Is it gonna be alot more complicated than printing each shoe out on a prusa, yes but it will be totally worth it imo...

  • thermal guise
    thermal guise 6 months ago

    I don’t have any experience with anything 3d printed, but I think a shoe that’s basically made of plastic could easily last 2 or 3 years.
    Also even I would like to see a part 2 of this.
    (for context, I normally watch things along the lines of: people playing video games, science/technology related things, cool or interesting animations, and people building anything they can imagine.)

    • Anony Mous
      Anony Mous 6 months ago

      What do you think most sneakers are made out of? Nylon, polyester, pleather...if they're not leather or canvas, lemme tell ya-they're made of plastic.

  • Cody Davis
    Cody Davis 6 months ago

    I know at the beginning of the video you mentioned being worried about the video not doing well, and while I as a watcher feel 100k views is great I know you’ve gotten more and want to encourage you that it’s so dope to see you push the boundary of your content! I swear man you’re looking up to be one of the greats if you keep going! Much like Kaws, Virgil, Salehe and all the others we look up to! I’m finally getting the drive back I had in college to do just that myself! Keep killing it for real!!!

  • Garrett Akin
    Garrett Akin 5 months ago

    I would imagine that if you could build the model/set the slicer to print the sole of the shoe hollow, pause the print once the walls have started building, then insert a thin rigid support before resuming printing and surrounding the rigid insert with the flexible filament, you could get some arch support and make things a bit more comfortable to wear long-term. The insert would either need to be thin enough to flex with the rest of the sole, or you might be able to segment sections into individual chambers to have them move independently.

  • Peter Nickerson
    Peter Nickerson 6 months ago +13

    Dude, I have been using the Ender 3 V2 for about a year now and it works amazingly and it prints TPU 95A without any issues. I think you had the settings all messed up. I think if you took the time to try and get it to work it would have been fine

    • Kilobyte Cache
      Kilobyte Cache 6 months ago

      Glass bed helps. Also the quieter mainboard..
      Ender 3 pro is useful****

    • Fire_Nugit
      Fire_Nugit 6 months ago +3

      It probably would have been better for him just to get a cr10, because of how big the shoes are anyways

  • AF
    AF 6 months ago +1

    dude, I have been wanting to print shoes SO BAD on my printer. Thanks for making this video to see what all you have went through to do it!

  • Joe Enderman
    Joe Enderman 6 months ago +1

    The original Ender 3 was super reliable for me, not sure what would make it completely unusable. I have heard that quality control is less than the best though.

  • Ewing Fabrications
    Ewing Fabrications 6 months ago +1

    If you change your infill type and try using tree supports you can cut the print time down a lot. but for a first try they came out awesome.

  • Florian Trück
    Florian Trück 2 months ago

    If you want to continue printing your own shoes you definitely should get a 3D printer with a bigger print bed. And next time: try to print the shoes laying flat, then you will not need support material inside the shoe.

  • asife00
    asife00 5 months ago

    So for v2? What you can try to do is put some rubber sealing on the bottom of the shoe to possibly keep it from wearing and/or cracking. Also, if your printer can accept a plate expansion, try a bigger plate for a few cm larger. ✌

  • J H
    J H 6 months ago +14

    I'd love to see even more attempts. maybe with more holes like a foam runner or pair of crocs to maybe cut down on print time. maybe try some different structures in the midsole, like a cross kind of structure that could give them more durability and spring. really fun idea though.

    REALSOLE 6 months ago +1

    You a genuis fam! seeing the slide on your foot at sneakercon i was sold but when we had a convo and you let me know how uncomfortable it is, i was a little disappointed but now seeing the process of it all. All i can do is to send love your way for bringing this type of content our way!

  • C18H19NaO5S
    C18H19NaO5S 6 months ago

    Fantastic for your first try! A redesign shouldn’t be super hard since you are this far with the design. V2 please!!

    • C18H19NaO5S
      C18H19NaO5S 6 months ago

      Honeycomb infill would be dope

  • Maarkaus
    Maarkaus 6 months ago

    Might try this myself... This looks like a fun project.
    What filament did you use? Any recommendations?

  • Brendan Leheny
    Brendan Leheny 6 months ago +2

    I think this might make for are great monthly series. Each month taking what you learnt and re-iterating and printing. Share the design with the 3d Printing community and make it collaborative. This might be interesting to watch and something different form the hype.

  • Padurariu Catalin
    Padurariu Catalin 6 months ago

    Well as I am planning to buy a 300 mm x 300 mm x 400 mm printer I was curious I could actually print this.
    My slippper is exactly 320 mm long.
    Now, for a better fit, I could probably print in an upright, toe down position, which means no supports inside the shoe (probably) which implies a print time that is legions shorter than what you're doing.

  • Saggy Sagstar
    Saggy Sagstar 6 months ago +3

    Very epic video, the shoes do a good job of highlighting the flaws and possibilities of fully printing an object meant to do work. Myself, I don't use anything more than pla, but I've printed a few objects that should probably see a better build materiel, for example, a phone case, or paddle wheels & skis for a hobby grade r/c car(traxxas bandit). Goes about 45mph, the paddles last longer than you would think. They taught me the importance of a perfect infill number, too much, they become too rigid and snap off, too little, they are simply too weak to withstand things like a little asphalt, or some twigs & walnuts.

    • Conor Stewart
      Conor Stewart 27 days ago

      If a part is well designed for 3D printing and an appropriate material is chosen, then there is no reason it shouldn’t be as good as a plastic part made with another method like injection molding. Your issue might be that you are using standard PLA for things that will experience a lot of wear. Fibre reinforced or low friction materials would be better, you can get carbon fibre PLA which has chopped fibre in it, it would increase its stiffness and wear resistance. Carbon fibre nylon would probably be best but it is a lot more difficult to print and can’t be printed on a standard ender 3. For fibre reinforced filaments you do need a hardened steel nozzle at least, but they aren’t very expensive.
      Don’t limit yourself to standard PLA, there are a lot of other materials out there that are probably better suited for your use case. Even ABS or ASA might be better because they have higher temperature resistance and better impact strength.

  • bom bastinator
    bom bastinator 6 months ago +2

    It’s a really interesting concept. In that position I might hit up the local shoe repair guy and take him to lunch or something. There’s a really long history to building shoes and he will know a lot about it. Dude sees a lot of shoes. He knows the various ways they go together. Thing is, that may be exactly where things are going. 3d printers have always needed a killer app, and little plastic toys just wasn’t it. Everybody wears shoes though. Well almost everybody. I might look at doing some muck boots. “Muck” is what farmers call animal poop. The phrase “to muck out a stall” takes on new meaning then. Anyway, one thing plastic is is watertight. Might as well use that. Crocs got popular by the way because surgeons wore them. The reason they wore them is they could be put through an autoclave and you could stand for hours in them.

  • Matthew Frost
    Matthew Frost 6 months ago

    I think for v2 you need have a focus on trying to make them comfortable (widening the heel, more infill etc.). Then for version 3 (if you make one). You will already have a comfortable insole and shape so that you can make it more visually appealing

  • RoboNator
    RoboNator 6 months ago

    one thing that would be really interesting is taking advantage of the complex geometries possible from 3d printing, and creating arrays of compliant mechanisms in the sole or something to provide basically a spring-mattress effect.

  • Tommy Alan Raines
    Tommy Alan Raines 6 months ago

    Awesome vid and great example of form and function aspect of design and you learned what works and doesn't when designing shoes.

  • anton gunther
    anton gunther 4 months ago

    3d print the shoe in parts.
    The the bottom of the shoe seperate and fill it with silicone or something else that's soft. Maybe do a layer of a harder stiffer material as the first layer.
    Add a rubber tubeing material around the rim of the shoe where your foot goes in.
    For the top part of the shoe: add plastic knobs. Designed so that you can hook a plastic overlay on top of them and thus change what your shoes look like everyday

  • Mazbaul Alam
    Mazbaul Alam 6 months ago +11

    Content just keeps getting better! Great Experiment!

  • Velocity Art
    Velocity Art 6 months ago

    As a 3d printer nerd and not a shoe nerd, this is really damn cool to see, and I'd love to see a V2 with more a design look. You could even make a shoe base, and then pay someone to sculpt a design on and print it

  • John Leff
    John Leff 6 months ago +1

    If you ever try doing this again maybe try attaching the top of the shoe to a premade sole and insole, that way you don't have to worry about the base collapsing if its semi-hollow or too soft.

  • Dutton Jones
    Dutton Jones 6 months ago

    I know that you spent a lot of money on this video, but i think resin printing would help out with a lot of what you have issue with. Verticle printing, basically no supports needed, and a better bonding of material so you get less punctures. You can also do really cool colors by starting with one color of resin and slowely adding another. I think that will bring you way closer to where you want to be. ^.^

    • Dutton Jones
      Dutton Jones 6 months ago

      Also, didnt tell you how excited this video makes me! I love that you have a passion for this because i really yhink you are onto something with this!!!!

  • Michael Galindo
    Michael Galindo 6 months ago +2

    I'm trying this right now. Actually, I'm trying to print shoe insoles modeled to my feet, out of a grid that uses column buckling to distribute pressure. (The way Purple mattresses / pillows / etc. distribute weight.) But my printer can't do flexible filament because it doesn't have direct drive... So it's going to be really challenging.

  • Alaska tactical
    Alaska tactical 6 months ago +1

    That first printer you got is the one I have it works fine for me. It just takes a little bit of tuning here and there.

  • Big Lily
    Big Lily 6 months ago +3

    suggestions for a V2:
    - make separate connectable prints, this would allow you to experiment with more designs and harder/softer materials as well as changing the infill pattern and density for the sole of the shoe to allow a bit more give and durability because from the looks of it you used a stock barebones one, when you should've probably done a more 3D one.
    - try making a dual sole with a softer material that locks into a harder (but still flexible) material, you could deal with less wear on the shoe as a whole and just have for the most part replaceable pads
    - open source this project! so many people will jump in to help you if you do, I know I would lmfao

  • Alex Desilets
    Alex Desilets 6 months ago

    You should figure out a design based around both 3D printers and shoes. That's what I did to design my ocarina. There are lots of ocarina designs available on the internet. Not all of them produce playable, ocarinas or ocarina that don't require additional finishing processes like sading, which wrecks the finish of clear or sparkly filaments. So I designed mine with the printing limitations of FDM in mind and made sure to limit my min overhang angle to 45 deg unless bridging.
    Just doing that makes it so that you never need supports unless you have a super long bridge.
    Next thing is plan you bed connecting surface and bump your bed temp to 80 deg. At 80 Deg the TPU is glued to the board. So if you plan a well enough sized area patch, you can print with no brims or supports on the board.
    To make your shoes air tight, go into your settings on prusa slicer and go to the machine gcode. Change M221 S{if layer_height>0.075}100{else}95{endif} to M221 S{if layer_height

  • pissedoffatyt
    pissedoffatyt 5 months ago

    The blue is pretty cool and the design wasn't so bad. More iterations would be cool

  • jaye1967
    jaye1967 6 months ago +1

    A V2 actually sounds like a great idea. That would make it a modernized and cheaper version of the high-end custom-made shoe business. Also, it would give you the advantage of not having the time constraint.

  • KJ
    KJ 6 months ago

    Here's my idea to upgrade that shoes. Next time just print out the bottom sole with maybe additional toe, arch and heel support and make a thick APTHCRY sock material and glue them together. I think that will be comfortable.

  • Eric Nelson
    Eric Nelson 6 months ago

    For the soles, I'd try injecting a silicone material in the voids. If you upgrade to a dual extruder you could also inplace print a shank for more arch support.

  • Chicken
    Chicken 6 months ago +4

    I feel like you should put some kind of lattice into the sole so it's more spongy rather than hollow bubbles, preventing popping

  • Adam LaCourse
    Adam LaCourse 6 months ago +1

    I can appreciate how difficult this would be to be with a 3D printer!

  • Street Teams
    Street Teams 6 months ago +1

    Excellent, Seth. Cool tech mixed with cool designs.

  • Asik Drone
    Asik Drone 6 months ago +1

    for the lack of 3d printer knowledge to get that First printer working , you know how to 3d sculpt so well it was like a mindF”@k for me ... lol I watched till the end and was surprised of the outcome! Great job! and for future reference look up the Creality Cr15 for half the price and it has a giant bed and print comparable if not better.

    GAMING O'BRIEN69 6 months ago

    I absolutely love the color, I would 100% buy if you could make it comfortable

  • mpedrozax1
    mpedrozax1 6 months ago

    Never heard of this cannel before but I normally see 3d printed stuff show up on my feed. I dig this project. I wish you would have also shared the brand and product name of your filament. You mentioned that you bought wrong 3d modeling software. What software do you think would be best for creating shoes? I look forward for V2.

  • wilshady775
    wilshady775 6 months ago +3

    Great video. Throughly enjoyed this. Fire slide. Very dope for a first design...

  • killsalot78
    killsalot78 6 months ago

    Also you can totally print faster, you did these at .2 layer height, you could get a much wider nozzle, like 0.8, and do them at 0.4 and since they're shoe sized the bigger layers wont look bad and will take literally half the time.

  • Jerome Demers
    Jerome Demers 6 months ago

    you can also try to use heatgun to manipulate the TPU filament near the ankle. Since you have hollow parts, might be even harder.

  • Call_Me_Madu
    Call_Me_Madu 6 months ago

    Man, they actually look like actual shoes i think i have some improvement to make them more durable and comfortable,
    1) Make the edges less rough by doing something like sanding them, i know i know its obvious but definetely will be good,
    2) Around the base of the shoe, you could put like a hexagon pattern that i think should make it less prone to cracking and make it stronger, thats an idea i came up with but would be fun to see you try, hexagon patterns are used in a lot of things to make them stronger without changing the size a lot like in steel plates
    3) Put some padding inside the shoe, seriously it will make a lot of difference trust me

  • SK
    SK 5 months ago

    Heat gun on the heel would’ve helped form them to your foot better. I could see a redesign and post-print mods such as infilling the midsole with a soft insulation foam / UVA foam would totally turn these into properly wearable shoes

  • bob smith
    bob smith 6 months ago

    Just imagine 3d printed cloth/sewing machine. Being able to print your own Tshirts/boxers would be a game changer.

  • LyKanix
    LyKanix 6 months ago +3

    Throwing the Ender 3 away was such a waste. It takes a while to get them printing correctly, but I have two of them that work great and I have one of them set up with a direct drive mod for flexible filaments. Should have put in a lot more effort or at least donated it somewhere.

  • Rex R
    Rex R 6 months ago

    Hey quick tip. When printing TPU on the smooth PEI build plate use a bit of isopropyl alcohol on the plate and the parts will come right off no force required

  • AngryMan7798
    AngryMan7798 6 months ago +1

    Hey man! One 3d printer to another, when your doing really big prints, you should bump up the layer height to 0.12. It’ll save you a load of time

  • J Mac12
    J Mac12 6 months ago

    Just imagine if this was a series and through Trial and Error you just came up with the most comfortable 3D printed shoe. The 3D Fowlers 🤯