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3D Printer Gearbox - Spinning it FAST
- Published on May 21, 2021 veröffentlicht
- [Episode 6] This is the fastest 3d printed gearbox that I have ever created. It has a 512:1 gear ratio. How fast can we get it to spin?
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Watch other episodes of the gearbox series:
Episode 5 - Possible to spin last gear? • Is it possible to...
Episode 4 - Generator: • Homemade GENERATO...
Episode 3 - Drill: • 3d Printed Gearbo...
Episode 2 - Speed Test: • 3D Printed Gearbo...
Follow along as we 3d print different gearboxes, try different gear ratios, explain the science behind these mechanisms.
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#gearbox #ender3pro #gears #gearratio #ratio #3dprinted #marblerun #satisfying #machines #tech #ASMR #create #3dprints #3dprinting #3dprinter #workshop #woodworking
Comments • 2 583
Put some silicone lube on the gears/shaft, or hook em to ball bearings. That'll really knock out some of the friction :)
Graphite powder will probably help at first
It will knock out some teeth too
Guys a cuber
What would be the best metal to make it work properly and best lube, which would handle high speed rotation produced heat ? Would skateboard ball bearings work ?
Truly an engineer moment when the placement of things doesn’t cross your mind until you have to take what you built apart
@AdamRud47 It's because they are. They like ripping owners for service, can't allow them to do repairs on their own. Luckily in EU they started making laws to enable owners to do simple repairs like changing light bulbs and such on their own.
@Austin Swearingen walk then ahahah
Just like doctors “c’s get degrees”
tf2 fans dont reply with “engineer gaming” challenge (impossible)
@Reedman07 notwhat he's talking about. Didn't mention crash survivability at all, but it's cool that you had that fun fact primed and ready to go so you can feel superior any time you see someone praise anything about older cars.
You need a flywheel on the highest Gear so it stops constantly losing momentum every time you stop cranking
@None of your Business What did I say that is incorrect? "lol"
@MaxPhallus It's a year later and you're still wrong lol
or to make it thicker
You would also have to make it stop touching the other gear once you stopped spinning
Use a square rod with a keyway through the gears as opposed to cylindrical. Then you can drive it with a high torque drill. Lubricate the gears. Put a propeller on the end, brace for takeoff
Attach drill and gearbox together, then you may as well developed personal helicopter
@raman deep Use a square rod with a steel tube slipped over it for the other gears to run on.
That is wrong if we are using a square rod through the gears ⚙
Coz they have different RPM
Very cool. Maybe you should key the handle.
Use a file to put a flat section on the axel and then have that slide through the plastic handle, with a lock pin either side.
TheRealLoganYT the shaft is round. The handle slips on the round shaft loosing torque.
If you file a flat on the shaft, then add either a wedge in that d shaped file out or a pin going across the shaft touching the flat it stops it slipping
Repent to Jesus Christ!!
““Ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened to you.”
Matthew 7:7 NIV
Dont touch the like !!
Also add a free spinning handle so as your turning the crank its easier to hold on to it as it spins
TheRealLoganYT Make it simple for you, Round is slippy
File the shaft to make it D shaped - The flat stops it from slipping
I wish you’d put a contrast color line on each one so that the speed of rotation shows up better on camera.
Watching in 144p be like
@FlyLeah that would be beautiful
The last ones would just look entirely whatever color you put on
“There should be no problem with the box coming off the table”
*Table comes off floor*
@ccencerツ The house comes out of the ground
table clips into wall, crashes server
Floor comes off of the house
@Taha Kashif He didn't promise the gearbox would stay on the table either now did he?
But he didn't promise that the table wont come off the floor
The way you made the screw near impossible to reach kind of makes you a real engineer
Still waiting for the yet unscheduled disassembly event to finally get scheduled! Gonna need a stronger connection from the lever to the first gear though, crazy amounts of torque need to get delivered!
Alternate title: "how to build a really good pencil sharpener"
@Distance_0 but if you spin it fast enough, the sharpener will cut on cellular level and preserve the shapness for a long, long time
source : some action anime probably, idk
A. Buy grinder
B. Pencil sharpener sharpener sharpener
C. Replace blade
@totally unique channel name and what if that gets dull?
@Seek Plushie you know, pencil sharpener sharpener
@totally unique channel name wait wha-
This is weirdly cool and satisfying and educational.
Dunno if you could use a laser rpm counter. It'll be cool to actually see the measurement
The spokes in those last gears might make them lighter, but it's also going to add drag. A solid gear with less infill will the job done better.. It'll probably help keep the fastest gears better in-circle as well. The last several gears would benefit in being balanced. The vibration and wobbling adds a ton of drag and is causing most of the plateau you are hitting. Reducing tolerances between the gears and shaft would help with that as well (+1 on the idea for quality ceramic ball bearings). With those tiny changes, I bet you could go a lot faster, and probably with much less force.
If you have the appropriate tools, try bending part of the metal shaft to make it into a handle itself rather than depending on some sort of glue to hold a handle in place
@Hermiwalle Yeah ofc welds are better than any glue. I just wanted to point out that they are weaker. But really anything able to withstand his muscle power and naturally the lever is enough.
Need to consider ease of making and application. Welds seem easier and would be more than strong enough for this. Assuming he knows how to make a strong weld. But both ways are good ways.
@ThatOldMe That motor will die. Have you seen the video the forces on that handle therefore on any motor are very high. You will need torque not speed.
@Hermiwalle Welds aren’t as strong as a one piece part.
He could use an rc car (hobby grade) motor to start off. (I have a castle combo 6s and it spinns up to about 48 000 rpm
Lube all the contacts + use router bit bearings between the shaft and the gears, these are made for high speeds, and you'll be able to get faster with the same input force :)
You should start putting a black mark along the gear at even intrevals, either a single line, (center to the outside), or a pie slice colored in, to allow the casual viewer an easier time counting rotations.
I would like to see an output side flywheel of some sort. Even adding weights to the final gear. It would make it harder to start but i think increasing the momentum would help maintain speed.
I might try using a hex shaft with hex bearings. The hex makes it so you don't need to epoxy it and the bearings will drastically decrease friction.
Fantastic!! I'm planning to be a mechanical engineer, your videos are very inspiring!
are you student?
Infrared camera view of that construction would be fun. Would be interesting to see where the Energy gets lost.
@Gabriel that seems to be the problem here and theres no solution lol
@Jack Seon i really hope all of this is making sense to you i SUCK at explaining things
@Jack Seon in this case id say how we expect things to work. funnily enough we dont even know enough about the universe to call them laws. its just what we have seen happen over and over again either with math or by observation and anything that goes against it we say it breaks those laws. when that happens we study it and then we change the record of how we expect things to work
@Exorias ok. And what is your definite definition of a "law"
loved the no waste method of using the old handle inside the new one
Since you are testing extremes, you could remove all internal right angles and replace them with rounded transitions.
If you do it again, you can get a 12” 1/4 or 3/8 ratchet extension and use a long ratchet to turn it, you can crank it back and forth to make it easier. That way your drive (minus the gears) will be all metal including the handle :)
You should try using press fit bearings if possible. You could use an oil, or a specialty low friction grease like "slick-oleum" as a lubricant in the bearings. I have a feeling that the biggest obstacle to higher speeds is the friction in the system.
For the handle, grind a flat side on the end of the metal shaft and match that in the handle. Then you get mechanical structure to reinforce the JBWeld.
You should add keyways to the gears and use a keyed shaft
or at least drill and pin them
@Derek Murawsky Bushings might be just fine for the other gears, because there is no load on the output. If there was any chance at all to knock a gear out of kilter and cause it to seize on the shaft, I'd agree that bearings are required. For a toy model like this, they're probably not required.
First gear and handle. Also, add bearings to the other gears.
This would also allow the gear shafts to be held in with circlips (C clips, Jesus clips, whatever you call them) rather than epoxy and hot glue.
@John Russ Thinking about it now, i do get it. The first gear is the gear driving the rest of the transmission of power. You right.
Also you may want to switch the gears being even number of teeth to a gear with a prime number of teeth. It tends to work better.
I wanna see a sequential styled gearbox should be pretty fun and interesting to see.
Would be cool for you to get a digital tachometer, to compare the calculated gear speed vs actual. If the prints are good the calculations are probably accurate, but would still be a great video aid to see the numbers digitally!!
Use a steel handle. Apply a notch in both the handle and axle. You can use a steel block to lock it. This is very common on lawnmower output shafts when mounting a blade
It would be great if some small ball bearings are used for the gears to reduce friction on the shaft , quite possible it would help spin the gears even fast due to less friction .
Last gear was spinning 167 times in a second, that's wow!
@Fhwgads11 hdd can spin up to 15000 rpm
Now hook it up to a mouse a very fast click speed
this is impressing
@doug112244 And then realize that turbochargers spin at up to 150,000rpm, and can have a service life of 100,000 miles
Have you tried a version with a flywheel on it? Maybe it might help store some of that energy to keep the lightest gear stable.
I found this very interesting.
Keep up the good work.
Sometimes I’m surprised these things don’t catch fire with how fast they spin
if you’re having problems with the handle mounting to the shaft, i would suggest recreating something like a vice handle by drilling a hole through the shaft itself and putting something through it 👍🏾
One idea is to attach an engine to the arm to make it spin real fast. And add a propellor on the final gear to make a jet engine :D
I'd love to see a gear system like this used with a Fan. Just to see how well it could shift air or cool a room.
Imagine it putting that gear from a bike
@Monster Pumpkin welllllll, some people use knots for planes, it’s dependent on height and speed, or so I heard, I’m not sure tho
At that point you have a turbine engine
@why even late to the party, but there's also probably a functional limit to the relationship between fan speed and air flow. At lower speeds, the 3-speed fan works fine, but the convection cooling achieved by the fan is directly dependent on the amount of mass flow the fan can move, which breaks down at higher fan speeds. Another user commented that the smallest gear was moving at 167 rev/s, which for a 20" box fan would result in a tip speed of around 266 m/s, or about Mach 0.78, which is well within the compressible-flow regime. Basically, making a fan "faster" only works up to a point, because once compressibility effects take over, your effective mass flow is going to drop off significantly due to compressibility losses and what not. I don't know all the details, but I would guess that a larger, slower fan, would remain more effective for cooling than a small, jet-speed fan.
It'd create a need for an expensive motor with a lot of torque and it'd also be very noisy because of the incredibly fast spinning blades.
Probably why it hasn't been done already. Though I'm sure standard tower fans aren't just a direct drive. Must have *some* kind of gearbox.
Great video!! To more securely attach the handle, scuff up the shaft attaching point with a grinder or file, and use acetone or alcohol to clean any oils off the steel. That will make for a much stronger bond with the epoxy. And as others have suggested, use some silicone grease on the gears on the shaft, and teeth. Do the grease part after the epoxy part, or you'll have a lot of trouble getting the shaft clean enough for the epoxy... Expect most of it to spin off, especially the faster gears. Smart on varying the infill and thickness from slow to fast.
Finally, a video where a gear with ridiculous ratio is turned the interesting way!
I noticed you use hot glue a bunch... Have you played with UV resin yet? I started using that stuff instead of hot glue and absolutely love the stuff.
It's a bit runnyer so it won't work in ALL glue gun instances but I find it cures just as fast and holds much nicer in many cases
You should have added a flywheel on the last gear. That way it wouldn't stop spinning so quickly after you stop inputting energy
Cold weld is an excellent product.
Perhaps if there was a slot in the axle to allow the JB to key onto the shaft, you could mitigate the failure you are seeing?
06:01 What we like to see next? Faster spinning Gears of course!
Yeah we wanna see him CRANK that anirite. Imagine him spinning it just three times a second
@Anthony Marcelino “If it aint broke, *break* it!”
Its gonna break
....am i the only 1 who wants to see it spinning so fast that it structurally fails and explodes?
I would like to see him tune the 3d printer. These prints are of awful quality. Elephants foot, under extrusion, and stringing to name a few issues.
Some ideas from an engineering dropout, rather than substantially thinner gears on the faster end, decrease the infill on the print, you're losing efficiency from the thin plastic flexing as it spins fast. Some combination via trial and error may be needed.
You're never going to get adhesive bond to an axle to hold the kind of mechanical advantage you're working with on the handle, it's surprisingly easy to key a shaft with a dremel and then use a dab of jb weld to secure the key. Lastly, bearings might seem like cheating but you should definitely have something there. Might I suggest brass bushings and a bit of lubrication? They can work a dream and aren't too difficult to make.
I figured out that if you print with bridging under the gear you can get the sharp tooth gear to print with perfect print. Just raise the model slightly off the bed and use auto bridging.
Pessoas como você, tornam a minha vida mais fácil.
Wat can i do with this thing🤔..
I wonder what it could use that much rotational force for,. I would like to see you incorporate a flywheel into something like this one with maybe a clutch I think it would be interesting. 👈 Getting smarter never hurt anyone, well atleast to my knowledge 👍
Watching the handle crank the last gear is extremely satisfying for some reason
this man just sacrificed a perfectly good table for a youtube video, props to him
He probably made more off this video than the table cost
Looks like plywood to me and the table is very simple, there's not much money lost there.
It is still perfectly good... Just has some extra holes in it!
Looks like a pretty cheap Ikea Table. So no love lost
Actually mabey dont give him props, hell probbaly drill holes in them for a youtube vid
Id like to see a small motor attached at the end gear. Use it as a generator. That way you can measure the voltage to which it produces. You can calculate the speed with that.
Tip, put a slot into the metal, then sand the end and jb weld it like that, the weld will fill the slot and adhere to the smooth metal better
I am sure the suggestion is here, but I would flatten the sides of the main shaft where the handle connects so you can get so more torque.
Second you can get a laser tachometer for under $30 to give you a pretty accurate read.
How about using a rod with a bent end which would be your lever and handle? That way, the lever getting loose or breaking wouldn't be a problem. You can just focus on making the gears faster and faster
Imagine this made out of tungsten with a impact gun at the end of it. And the.. really curious how fast it would go
I wonder where this series is going?
Don't end this until you reach a million RPM!
@GRBTutorials Not if we use „Vibranium“ like that Hyperloop company!
@Σlligator 2 million than
Even Half a million is asking a bit too much
I’m pretty sure that’s impossible... with a 10 cm wheel with a mass of 50 g, the centripetal force would be about 55 meganewtons, the equivalent to about 5000 metric tonnes, way beyond the ability of plastics, and even solid steel.
This video was super well made and you have a great personality. Keep it up!
For your handle you can make a cut in the shaft to have something other than a round section to grab on
Some advice (I use printed gears in a lot of prototypes). Cut a slot into the shaft with a dremel, much like a flat head screw or throttle body butterfly. Have a slot in the gear that is 2x shaft diameter in depth. place a flat piece of metal in to lock them in place. Functions the same as a woodruff key, but much more suitable to 3d printing.
Also, Taulman bridge nylon isnt much more cost than abs or pla, but is MUCH more slippery. Often requiring little to no lubricant on meshing surfaces.
Also, where you put the shafts through the mount, split the model horizontally in the middle of the holes along the layer line. Then bolt the top half of the shaft mount on.
Mechanically pin the handle to the drive shaft a small steel pin along with the job weld will get you going pretty good
Try sanding or making a few keyway on the handle so it can't slip out of the JB weld.
I would love to see you try this again with the gearbox semi submerged in a low viscosity fluid to help reduce friction.
when i replicated this build I just invented frictionless material
Can you print with Delrin, or some other super low friction plastic? That wouldn't need any oil. Or you could use a dry lube, like PTFE.
Use grafit as a lub and mybe you can add bearing to
@Dioodes but will the oil boil?
If you would just hold the handle right you could crank it slowly increasing the speed and you could get it a lot faster im sure. It’d reduce the pressure on the handle it has when you just put full force onto it from a stop.
Make the handle part so you can place a drill on it, put drill on low torc and rev it, then put a generator on the end and you will have made more power than the drill uses (I wish, but it will go fast tho), also when you have it up in speed, it should take less force to keep it turning, ergo you can go from low torc to fast when it is going for full, maybe ;)
Do you think a flywheel on the output could help it spin faster?
You should see if someone can't forge you an iron rod with a built in handle so it can't break, see how far you could push it
I need to see what happens if the largest gear spins as fast as the smallest gear
I'd love to see you drive a flywheel with two (or one, two might be too crazy) different gearboxes and try "dumping the clutch" into one that's difficult to drive! It'd be really cool to see the law of conservation of momentum at work :)
JB weld is great. I use it in rocketry for filleting the fins. It does not melt like most other epoxy does, 10/10
Dumping powdered graphite on all contact surfaces on the gears and shafts would definitely help with ease of movement.
You should use lubrication
Mostly to reduce generated heat.
Also scale down the last gear a lot so you have even less spinning mass.
On top, maybe try belted gearing. It's more efficient!
And use bearings for the gears
You could at least sand the part you glued. Making it a square shape or putting in slots would be better. A hole with another rod going through it for extra support would be even better. But that’s going way outside your printing thing which is the whole deal. Really cool.
It would have been amazing if the part of the handle that you grab onto could rotate inside of the crank so you dont have to rotate your hand as you turn it. also a bigger handle so you could get a really good grip on it .
Obviously bearings and lubricant would help, I also had the idea to go up by each gear but you covered that here. I think each gear should be solid on the outside like youve done previously. My only other fun idea would be put golf ball pips on the sides of the gears
Golf ball pips would probably not help in this application. Hear me out.
Golf ball pips do increase the range of golf balls by decreasing NET drag, but there are two different sources of drag at play.
First, we have "frictional" drag, where the air that is stopped rubs against the air that is stuck to the surface of the object.
Second, we have pressure drag. I'm terrible at explanation, but imagine a bullet traveling through water. If the bullet was traveling fast enough, as water has momentum, it would "jump" off the nose, and then come crashing back down together. The void that is created is very low pressure, and literally sucks on the bullet, slowing it down. Golf ball pips INCREASE frictional drag, but this energy goes into creating turbulence that extends the boundary layer, or the area around the ball where relative air velocity transitions from matching the ball to stationary. This causes a lower tendency to suffer from flow separation, and thus decreases parasitic drag. The same effect could be achieved by having a teardrop shape, like hypermile cars, but balls must remain rotationally symmetric.
A gear has a constant cross section when rotating, save for the teeth, so I believe pips would only increase drag.
Imagine how fast you could go if you have this in your bike and you would have the strength to use it.
When I was a child, I my dream was to build a plane using a mechanism like this, and power it with my legs. My legs were extremlely strong when I was a child
@Paul I said that my legs were extremely strong, not fast. What's your point?
@Paul Which is why creating a human powered experimental plane at all was such a major and difficult achievement.
Then you would quickly learn the difference between speed and power. You may be able to turn these gears that fast, but if you attach a propeller to it, you need a lot more power than a human can provide. A human being can produce about 1/4 horsepower or 186 watts of power. For comparison, the Wright brothers’ first airplane used a 12 hp (9 KW) engine.
@John DoDo Doe Yeah I was bogged down watching those videos after I wrote that comment which later resulted into me eager to fly on a glider once.
@Denis Palchak Someone much smarter built a pedal powered aircraft. This required almost a century of innovations for a short low flight.
You should make a metal handle or use a longer bar for the shaft and bend it (check some old hand drills for the shape), and use the same shaft to spin it.
You can't just depend on the chemical bond of the JB weld. You need an physical bond like an pin or an joint, even making scratches on the surface of the material that needs to be glued will allow it the glue to have more grip on the material so you won't have the jb weld failing.
Thanks for the video :) Perhaps wear some eye protection, a face shield, and some additional protection such as a wall in case a gear spins apart or something else happens.
Replace the lever with a circle, and maybe tie a string around it with a weight at the ene to keep it spinning
You may want to add a small amount of lubricant to the gears. That should quiet the gears as well as reduce the amount of friction in the system
You should serrate the Steel dowel and then put the jb weld on it. It will grab better than a smooth steel surface
I always wondered, if you could use something like this to charge up devices. And if you could. How many gears would you need to make it charger faster then just plugging your phone, or power brick to the wall?
Could you attach something to the fastest gear, or make a small bit of it a different colour so we can have a better visual queue of how fast it's going?
Maybe it would be easier to rotate if you have made the fastest last gear heavier. Inertia will help you after few seconds.🙃 also you will get mechanical battery with heavier last gear.
Try using a Dremel tool on the "Driveshaft" to allow for the Jb weld to attach better by scuffing the surface
Would be awesome if you put like a propeller on the smallest one so we can see the true velocity it gets
Epoxying the gears to the shaft, after screwing the mount to the centre of the table is a great example of an engineer saying “well it works on paper”
I built something similar out of K'Nex as a kid. It was impossible to turn the first gear without breaking the plastic pieces, or just having the thing fall apart under the torque.
Trust me this idea is flawless. First you make a 9/1 rope system so it’s really strong. But the trade of is its slow. So you make a 1/9 and attach it to the 9/1. Genius
Have you considered applying a gearbox like this to something like a bicycle and using it to ramp up an alternator? I’d be curious to know if it increases power output or if it would make turning it impossible from the load on the final ratio
It increases speed, decreases force and doesn't change power (except all those friction losses). Biggest dynamos rotate as slowly as practical to reduce friction losses.
adding some bearings or at least lubrication to the faster gears to reduce friction may help you get more speed.
insane to watch 3d printed parts spin faster than an engine. great work!
My engine goes to 15,500 RPM 🤷🏻♂️
@Nathan Gold cough cough, wintergatan Marble Machine X, cough, cough.
10K RPM is really getting into mechanical bearing limits. The added mass of the centerpart of the bearing might add a lot of extra inertia on the final gears. This might already start to go require gearing mass optimization: e.g. reducing the amount of RPM to the heavy parts like bearing and solid steel shafts, for instance by adding extra stages.
For high RPM spindles like 20K rpm, with some loads on it like in micro-lathes, you already need to start optimizing elektromotor spindle mass and start using air or magnetic bearings.
Glue geometry can be highly optimized further, by making better use of the shear strength of the glue at the interface: also reduce glue thickness and real industrial epoxy bonds.
@Nathan Gold true
@Nap no dur, this is a youtube channel. he makes profit for these videos, wouldnt it be better to have 15 videos slowly enhancing the build each time throughout each video. he could then make more videos rather than one (making more money) . not about it fuctioning, watching his engineering mishaps is whats entertaning.
Use an RPM meter next time, and run the input with a super strong stepper motor!
If you make the handle longer you'll be able to turn the gear easier with leverage
Had to give a like for the elegant piano playing while you vigorously attempt to pull out the last screw
Try a giant turn handle you can only spin outside or something. It would be hard to get the thing upright but once you get it you can put your body weight into it. Nvm heat would be an issue.
make a gear box that ratios up and then back down so that the starting gear moves just as fast as the last gear, while the gears in the middle spin the fastest.
Nothing like honest clickbait delivering on the common request of "Please just spin it as fast as you can, even if it breaks, that's the point!"
You truly are a gift to this particular Clip-Share niche.
@AcornAnomaly I guess thats true. My understanding of the word clickbait got influenced by the misleading thumbnail meta. Kinda how people use simp in the wrong context.
@Barely Alive I'd say it's still clickbait, because it's baiting you into clicking on it. Just because it delivers doesn't mean it's not clickbait; it's just not bad/misleading clickbait.
@Barely Alive "A caught fish still eats the worm"
How is it clickbait then? If he does what the Thumbnail states then there is no baiting or false advertisement
Took the words right out of my mouth. This was such a simple thing and he did it for us. Super satisfying.
To make you life easier and increase the possibility to spin faster you should ad flywheel to your gear, otherwise every time you stop to rotate the handle you lose the momentum
You should made a crank powered fan for summer time.
Something that can go fast but doesn't need energy enough to make to sweat.
Next time if you don't want to break the JB weld off of the steel rod put some lines into the steel rod so that the JB weld has something to sit into